Storm damage repair starts with a tarp on the open deck and a rapid damage inspection. We photograph every impact, mark the hail bruises and wind-lifted field courses, and note the valley where water finds a path under the shingle.
Then it becomes a full roof inspection, where chimney flashing, step flashing, drip edge, and the ice-and-water shield at the eave get checked against the local building code. We pull the permit and work with your adjuster before a dumpster lands in the driveway.
Bay humidity keeps the roof deck damp enough for rot, and wind-driven rain pushes past a failed sealant before you ever see a stain indoors. We replace the underlayment, refit the fascia and soffit, and clear the gutter and downspout so meltwater has somewhere to go.
- Replace the torn shingle with a matching architectural shingle, so the field course stays level and the eave line reads straight from the curb.
- Set new synthetic underlayment over the decking instead of tar paper, because roofing felt wicks water sideways once wind gets under it.
- Renew the ice-and-water shield at the eave and the valley, the two spots where an ice dam pushes meltwater back uphill.
- Reflash the chimney and reseat the pipe boot, since a failed vent boot leaks behind the wall long before the ceiling shows a stain.
- Reset the ridge cap and clear the ridge vent, so attic ventilation keeps pulling bay humidity out once the decking dries.
- Rehang the drip edge along the rake, so runoff leaves the fascia alone instead of rotting the soffit behind it.
